18th -21st January, Chiloe and Llanquihue Lake

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Right, I am trying to catch up, since my post about the Navimag ferry we have travelled just short of 3000km. We have had quite a few things going on, Clair fell off her bike, we camped, we hosteled, we went over a mountain back to Chile and then back over the same mountian to Argentina. We have travelled the iconic Ruta 40. We have run out of money and nearly run out of fuel, All will be revealed…..

Here we go: We went to the island of Chiloe, Everybody said it was wonderful. We didn’t get it. We camped a few miles onto the island for a few days and then rode to the south. Maybe we were feeling a bit jaded but it really didn’t light our fires. It was during this ride that Clair came off her bike. We had stopped at a waterfall, the road was rocky and sandy and there was one short steep section, I stopped and she slipped off at the bottom, trapping her leg under her foot peg which hurt somewhat. She managed to catch herself just above the protection afforded by her boot. It looked sore the next day.

£3 per night with electricity. Not bad
There is always washing to be done.
Castro on Chiloe, the famous stilted houses.

Not really getting the attraction of Chiloe, we hopped onto the ferry off the island, the sea was a bit rough and getting off was a bit shaky for both of us, the ferry was pitching up and down as we rode off the ramp. No harm done fortunately and we were once again on our way. Our end destination was Bariloche in Argentina. Although we have come to hate route 5, the main road up through Chile, it seems that wherever you go, you have to use it a bit. We got off as soon as we could and looped along the south coast of Llanquihue Lake. We had already travelled part way down this road and we had forgotten how twisty it was, We both quickly fell into the blissful bit of motorcycling when you have a continuous left, right, left of curves, nothing too hard but the roads are good and you can push the bikes that little further around the bends because we know the road is pretty good.

We stopped at a cafe in the afternoon where the owner was proudly showing a photo on her wall. Ewan and Charlie and stopped there a few weeks previously on their soon to be released Long Way Up TV program.

A few miles up the road we pulled into Entre Lagos, a small village where we managed to get a cabana with a double bed, our first for 11 nights. We pretty much stopped dead, getting off the bikes, getting cleaned up, we picked some food up from a supermarket 200 metres away, ate and talked the night away.

Some cabanas are a hut, some are like a small house and very luxurious. This was one of the latter.

We had two nights there so I spent half of the next day cleaning the bikes and fixing a few things. I always feel a little guilty having turned up at someones hostel, getting my tools out so I always try and be a bit discreet and never makes a mess. However, no-one has ever given us cause for concern and at the end of the work I had a suntan and two clean bikes.

Cleaning the bikes at Entre Lagos

We took a walk around town, there is a beach on the edge of the lake. It’s nice to see that people get out and socialise a lot, there are always stalls and small shops that open selling bric-a-brac and people milling around. We always stand out though with our big hats and white skin, our sandals and shorts easily mark us as tourists. However, as always, we will have moved onthe next day, soon to be forgotten by anyone we met.


  1. Strange the reference to Charlie
    Know him from Marbella where his wife’s parents own the penthouse in the next block.
    Good Luck Brian


    1. Its strange how we meet people who we will probably never see again. We can always hope but you never know. We also often arrive somewhere to find someone we know has recently passed through there.


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